Running a Remote Camera Line

Running a Remote Camera Line

Establishing a procedure with your camera checks will make them easier to use and more efficient.

C.D. Denmon

The use of remote scouting cameras have become extremely popular among hunters and it shows by the multimillion dollar business it is today. To some however, the use of remote cameras is considered “cheating” while to many, including myself, it is a valuable tool; a tool that has become one that I can no longer live without .

In today’s fast paced society filled with ever-growing demands on every hunter, the need to make the best use of limited time afield is very important and using scouting cameras allows you to do just that. When setting out to use these cameras it is also important to use them properly so you can achieve maximum effectiveness of the time that you have them in the field as well.

Preparing

Before taking your cameras into the field have a checklist to follow. By going through the checklist and preparing the camera as much as possible before the actual setup you will reduce the amount of time in the area thus reducing the amount of human scent left behind.

1. Batteries- Before each setup, put in fresh batteries to insure that you will get maximum effectiveness from the sensor and flash. In between camera checks it is a good idea to carry a small electrician’s meter. This allows you to check the actual battery voltage should a camera not be working. This helps eliminate the guess work by knowing whether or not the batteries have the proper voltage.

2. Film- If you are using a film camera, be sure that the film is properly caught in the camera sprockets to insure it advances properly. The best film to use for most these cameras is a 400 speed print film.

3. Settings- check all the photo stamp and sensor settings on the camera. The stamp settings are the information that is stamped on the photos as they are taken. The best setting to have is the day and time of day setting. If you know exactly where each camera is going before you go afield you can preset the sensor settings, otherwise you will need to wait till you place each camera to adjust for the correct settings for a particular location.

The author’s latest buck that was pinpointed through the use of remote cameras.

Cameras placed on food plots or feeder stations should be set so that a picture will be taken no less than every 15 minutes. While a camera placed on a trail should be set down to a 20-30 second intervals or the lowest one possible. This is to take advantage of buck bachelor groups as you don’t want to miss trailing bucks after the first one was photographed.

Sensor sensitivity is also important. If the temperatures are extremely warm you will want to move the sensitivity settings higher and during cold temperatures you can get away with a lower sensitivity setting. Also, if you are forced to place a camera in such a place where the camera will be affected with direct sunlight, it is then that you should lower the sensitivity settings.

Setting Up

Catching big bucks on camera while in velvet can really get a hunter excited about the coming season.

I begin my camera setups in the beginning of July and I use this time period to get an overall assessment of what classes of bucks are in the local herd. I will target fields, food plots, watering holes and similar areas where deer congregate during the summer. As the summer progresses, I will progressively move my cameras further away from those areas mentioned and move them along their travel corridors, ending near their bedding areas. Doing this allows you to help establish travel patterns for specific deer in your area.

When I am setting cameras up I prefer to do it during late morning or early afternoon to avoid spooking deer as much as possible in those areas. I also use rubber boots as much as possible when setting and checking cameras.

If the camera is being placed on level ground with the area being monitored the best height is about 4.5 feet off the ground. If the camera is set on a hill side and the trail is above or below the camera you should adjust the height accordingly so you can get full view of the animals as they pass.

It is especially important that the camera be shaded as direct sunlight can mistakenly trigger the sensor and haze from direct sunlight can hinder picture quality as well. Once you have found a shaded area it is also important that no branches are in front of the camera. Limb movement from even the slightest breezes can trigger the camera and waste valuable film and or battery life on useless photos.

If the camera utilizes a flash you can eliminate some animal spook by facing the camera at an angle facing the direction you expect most of the animals to be heading - that way you catch them as they have already slightly passed. It is also important to know the limits of the flash, the sensor and the camera lens. All of these factors will dictate how close or how far away you can set the camera up from the area being monitored. On average I set up my cameras 12'-15' from a trail.

You just never know what you will see when viewing remote cam photos.

Once the camera has been set up, test it by walking in front of it to be sure you have proper angle and that everything is working properly. Once you have the camera set and ready, spray the system down with an odor eliminator spray but be sure not to spray directly on any of the lenses. Only spray where you came into contact with the tree, camera housing and mounting straps or chains.

How often you check you cameras will be dictated by local herd, camera location and settings. Ideally I want to limit the amount of visits to my camera locations and so should you. Ideally I like to check cameras every two weeks on trail locations, while cameras on field and food plot edges are not as sensitive so you can get away with checking them once a week if necessary.

There are many fine points to running a successful camera line and hopefully these few key points will help you do just that.