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World’s Adventures In Archery
Treestands: Care and Feeding
Man, have I been in some lousy treestands. From Alabama to Manitoba, and numerous points in between, I’ve roasted, shivered, fidgeted, teetered, swayed, gotten vertigo in, and spooked game from, treestands that were uncomfortable, unstable, noisy, and generally ineffective. Just getting into some of them required enough noise, activity, and sweat to greatly reduce my chances of success. In more recent years I’ve grown wiser: If I don’t like the looks of a stand, I refuse to get into it. Better far to hunt from the ground than from an unsafe, uncomfortable, or just plain ineffective treestand.
When I say “quality” in this context, I’m not referring simply to the design, materials, and workmanship of a given treestand. Though a quality stand is solid, sturdy, and quiet, there are other criteria, some tangible and some less so, that go into the making of a good stand. Comfort, for instance, should not be underrated in a treestand. Discipline and sacrifice are fine things, but if you’re truly comfortable in your stand you will spend more time in it, fidget less, be more alert and better prepared for the big moment, and enjoy hunting more. Beyond being comfortable, a quality stand is one that can be climbed
into and out of quickly, quietly, and safely, with a minimum of sweat,
noise, and activity.
A quality stand is one in which a hunter can sit down, stand up, and turn 180 degrees in, easily and without risk. A “quality” stand is not to be confused with a perfect stand. I have given up on my quest for the perfect treestand. Every treestand is a compromise of some sort. For instance, I like big treestands. A stand you can walk around in, eat lunch in, and sort your gear in, is more comfortable than a tiny stand in which these activities are difficult or impossible. The obvious compromise: All else being equal, big stands are much heavier, more difficult to carry through the woods, and more difficult to hang. Very small stands, on the other hand, are light, comparatively easy to hang, and more mobile. For many hunters, those advantages are worth the compromise of a comfort level that is in some cases right up there with the middle seat on a long flight. The perfect stand may not exist, but the best stand for a given individual in a given situation is worth finding. Furthermore, there is a lot we can do to increase the comfort level, safety, and effectiveness of any stand. Select The Right Stand
Treestands are getting better all the time, and hunters have never enjoyed so many options, each of them best suited for specific situations. If your treestands are less than solid, stable, quiet, comfortable, and easy to install, it’s time to start shopping. Installation & Access
Ladder stands should be the standard of comparison when it comes to quick, safe, and easy access. If you use steps or sticks, try to position them for easy climbing. This is a safety issue, but beyond safety, you want to get in and out of your stand without making noise and working up a sweat. Steps should extend well above the platform of the stand, so that getting into it and out of it is quick and effortless. Accessorize It
I’m still awaiting the treestand with a built-in bow holder. Seems obvious, since most bow hunters consider a bow holder a necessity. (It’s not built in, but Cabela’s does offer a free bow holder with its Tara Carbon treestand.) A variety of small, inexpensive holders are available for bolting to the platform of most stands. My own preference is for holders such as API’s Bow Caddy, the Multi-Purpose EZ Hanger, and similar holders that attach above the hunter’s head and hold the bow from an arm. Most arm-style holders will also accommodate binoculars, range finders, grunt tubes, etc. but belt-type accessory holders like the Hunter’s Specialties Ecology treestand Accessory Belt or the Pine Ridge Hunt-N-Gear, are probably better suited for this, since they keep gear handy but not hanging where they can obstruct vision, shooting, or access to bows. Ladder stands are among my favorite because of their easy, quiet access, but most feature steel seat platforms that will suck the heat out of your body in cold weather, and which are uncomfortable even in mild weather. Inflatable cushions of the type favored by turkey hunters are a good fix for this, but a better one is to strap or glue a layer of closed-cell foam to the platform. (A carpet scrap can work, but these will get wet and stay wet.) Leaning against a tree is seldom comfortable for more than a few minutes.
Most inflatable cushions and similar seats used by deer and turkey hunters
come with belts, which can be tied around a tree and used as a backrest.
Northeast Products offers seat pads and back cushions designed specifically
for the purpose, and evens markets a treestand foot pad called the Therm-a-Mat.
Several products help conceal treestand hunters. These are useful when the ideal location puts the hunter in an exposed position, or for any hunters who tend to fidget—which is most of us, if we’re honest about it. Optional blinds are available with some treestands. Products such as Branch Camo Brackets, from High Racks, and the Pine Ridge Branch Strap, enable hunters to strategically locate real or artificial branches around a stand for optimum concealment without obstructing shooting lanes. Camo umbrellas like the Buckwing Porta Roof and Ameristeps’s Ultimate Umbrellas fit around trees over stands to make hunters less visible by keeping them in shade, and provide some protection from precipitation as well. One item I’ve found to be a necessity for some hang-on stands and ladder
stands is the ratchet strap. Ameristep, Keeper Outdoors, and Buckwing all
make ratchet straps specifically for use with treestands. Some stands just
won’t be stable without them, especially for smaller or oddly shaped tree
trunks.
Finally, though newer stands tend to rely less on T-screws and wing nuts, I’ve learned the hard way to keep spare parts in my day pack for my stands that make use of these. (Nothing like dropping a wing nut from 20 feet up as you move the seat of your climber stand to the tree-facing position in preparation for climbing down.) Maintenance
Naval jelly and similar products can be used on rust spots. Apply it,
let it sit according to instructions, then wipe off. If that doesn’t eliminate
the rust, apply again, wait a little longer, and scrub with a stiff brush.
Paint over the spot with Rust-Oleum, which is available in flat camo colors
such as forest green, black, and gray. Naturally you’ll want to avoid lubricating
or painting your stands right before hunting season, when scent control
is an issue.
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On
the other hand, all those bad experiences serve to reinforce the pleasure
of hunting from a quality stand. Having spent countless hours in treestands
both good and bad, I’ve developed some definite ideas about what constitutes
a quality stand, and how to go about achieving it.