NEW COLUMN: Taxidermy Tips By Anne Vinnola
Oct 15, 2007 - 9:42:29 AM
TAXIDERMY TIPS Sponsored by coloradotaxidermyschool.com
Anne and her husband Jerry have owned the Colorado Institute of Taxidermy Training Inc, for 18 years and have taught over 750 men and women world wide, to be successful in this fine art.
She and Jerry have 4 wonderful kids all of whom have been raised hunting and competing in various shooting sports. Anne is now hunting more seriously now that they are all at an age where they can participate.
Anne also enjoys teaching people how to use their beautiful mounts in their homes and has advised people in the design of their trophy rooms.
She has also written many articles about field care, decorating with taxidermy and the exciting, ever-changing career of taxidermy published. She is currently working on 2 books and is a Safari Club International Life Member, active in her local Friends of NRA and supports hunting and shooting sports in her community.
WHEN YOUR TROPHY IS DOWN:
When you have bagged and tagged a great mule deer, elk or other big game animal, after letting the guys pat you on the back and letting the "buck fever" ooze back out of your system, there are some things you can do to insure the placement of a beautiful work of art on the wall in your trophy room. CHOOSE YOUR TAXIDERMIST WISELY:
If you have not yet decided who will be mounting your animal, it is important to get as many references as you can about the taxidermists in your area. You invest time scouting the area you will be hunting for your animals; be sure to invest time scouting for your wildlife artist also.
Visit the taxidermy studios in your town and also in the area where you will be hunting to see how their mounts look. Are the ears natural and properly placed? Are the eyes looking in the same direction, are they sunken in or bugged out?
Are there any gaps in the sewing, or at the base of the antlers?
Is the turn around time acceptable to you? Taxidermists are very busy during hunting season, but should be able to give you a estimated time of completion. Do they offer a written guarantee on their work? Does the taxidermist offer a written quotation including all materials, crating and shipping?
PLACEMENT AND POSITION:
You need to give some thought to the position in which you want your animal mounted. Do you want it done in a life-sized pose? Do you want a panel mount, where the skull is covered with leather; a European mount, in which the skull and antlers are bleached and placed on a plaque? What about a shoulder mount where the head, neck and shoulders are mounted? Will you be hanging it on the wall or having it made into a pedestal display?
You will need to know where in your home you are going to hang your mount and which direction you want it to face. (This is a good thing to discuss with your wife, fellas!) It is not advisable to hang it where it will be exposed to direct sunlight, over heat registers, or anywhere near a swamp cooler. Make sure the dogs and kids will not have access to it.
If you are hunting a distance from home, having your trophy mounted where you are hunting, then shipping the finished mount from that area may be worth the extra cost of crating and shipping if getting it to your hometown taxidermist safely is a concern. Remember, price shopping over the phone is not always the best way to choose who cares for your hunting memories.
FIELD CARE TIPS:
The memory of your hunt will be sweeter if you do not end up with tainted meat and extra taxidermy expenses so be mindful of your field care.
NEVER SLIT AN ANIMALS THROAT IF YOU PLAN TO HAVE IT MOUNTED.
Investing in a quality skinning knife and sharpening stone is important. A knife that won't hold its edge will frustrate you, slow the whole process and cause more damage to the cape.
A problem for many hunters is "hair slipping". Hair slip is when the animal begins shedding the hair on the cape and it is caused primarily by bacteria growth and trauma. Antelope are notorious for this problem, but all animals harvested are vulnerable. Bacteria growth starts at 40 degrees. Getting your animal cooled to below that temperature needs to be a high priority also be gentle when getting your animal out of the woods. Don't drag it or haul it over rocks.
Even if you don't want to have your trophy made into a shoulder or life-sized mount, most taxidermists need extra capes and will pay you for yours or credit your bill if you are having a panel or European mount done.
There can be confusion with the terms "cape" and "hide." The cape is the part which will be used in the mount and the hide is the rest.
If you have not been taught to fully cape an animal's face, it is best to leave it to your taxidermist. It takes skill to be able to cut around the eyes and lips without causing problems for the taxidermist and ruining your mount.
If you want a life-sized mount done, get specific advice from your taxidermist. He will give you complete instructions as to how he wants you to do it or if he feels better doing it by himself.
HOW TO CAPE FOR A SHOULDER MOUNT:
Lay the animal in a grassy area or on a tarp to keep the meat as clean as possible. Do not tie it with a rope around the antlers if it is in velvet, nor around the neck which will harm the hair. Make a smooth cut starting approximately 3 ribs behind the front legs, going completely around the animal.
Next cut the skin around the front legs and cut the underside of each leg. Begin taking the cape off of the body pulling it off something like you would a sweater. The trick is to leave as much skin on the piece you will be taking to the taxidermist as possible. DO NOT cut the brisket. Where the head and neck meet, measure approximately 3 inches back and sever the head from the neck.
Do not wrap the head in a black plastic bag and let it sit in the sun. You need to get it cooled immediately. If you must wait a few days until you can get the head to the taxidermist, then freeze it.
VELVET CARE:
If your animal is still in velvet, you need to take several steps to protect the antlers. Your taxidermist can have your antlers "re-velveted" for you if there is a problem, but it is costly. Handle the velvet as little as possible and do not hang the head by the antlers. It inhibits the drainage of the blood from the antlers and also damages the velvet itself. Carefully stand the head in a place where the blood can drain, keeping it safe from dogs or other harmful animals.
Many hunters want to blame the taxidermist when they themselves create many of the problems in the field. If you use good sense and treat the head and cape as you would with any perishable item, then you will have a stronger chance of bringing home a beautiful mount to show off.
Jerry and Anne Vinnola own and operate the Colorado Institute of Taxidermy Training Inc, and have been training successful taxidermists for almost 20 years. They also own Big Timber South Taxidermy, a full service taxidermy studio. You may contact them at 1-800-733-6936 or coloradotaxidermyschool.com
Or write to them at 708 Royal Gorge Blvd. Canon City, CO 81212
